NEW YORK: THE NED GUIDE
I am not the world's most empathetic
person. On the empathy scale I'd put myself about level with Ultron.
Sometimes I think there may only be one situation in life where I am really capable of
feeling pain on behalf of another human being. And that's when a
friend of mine goes to New York for a week and they don't eat very
well. That is a tragedy that can haunt my conscience for months
afterwards.
It's especially poignant to me because
it's so easily averted. No tourist in New York need ever eat badly.
(Money no object! On a budget of $20 a day you can eat the best food
of your life if you tramp the 7 line in Queens.)
With that in mind, I feel it may be
time to present my findings from the many long visits to New York
I've made over the past few years. Here is the Google Map I've made.
The trouble is, I have a real
collector's mentality about restaurants, meaning I tend to visit each
place only once, and the next time I want to try somewhere new.
However, for me, recommending a restaurant based on one visit is
horribly unscientific and irresponsible, because my enjoyment of any
given meal has so much to do with who I'm with, who's paying, how
much I've had to drink etc. (Footnote: perhaps those factors don't affect
professional restaurant reviewers. But I do believe that you simply
don't know very much about a restaurant and its food if you've only
eaten there once. That's why I find it hard to take seriously any
inspection less rigorous than the New York Times' critics', because
they eat a long series of meals, or even, in one famous case, two meals simultaneously.)
So in the following recommendations I'm
giving priority to businesses I've patronised two or more times.
Here are my seven favourite bars in New
York. (Yes, I'm doing bars as well.)
Booker & Dax (East Village –
cocktails: modernist)
Amor y Amargo (East Village –
cocktails: aged spirits and bitters)
Henry Public (Cobble Hill –
cocktails: general sense of limitless wellbeing)
Torst (Greenpoint – craft
beer)
Gowanus Yacht Club (Carroll
Gardens – beer in the sunshine)
Decibel (East Village – sake)
Lucky Dog (Williamsburg –
dive)
Here are some more bars that I've found
to be reliable fall-backs in their respective neighbourhoods, listed
roughly in order of how close they got to making it on to the
previous list:
Doris (Bed Stuy), 4th Avenue
Pub (Park Slope), The Library (Lower East Side), The
Brooklyn Inn (Boerum Hill), Sel Rrose (Nolita), Home
Sweet Home (Chinatown), Sunny's (Red
Hook), Ontario Bar (East Williamsburg), Brooklyn
Social (Carroll Gardens), Sophie's (East
Village), Spuyten Duvil (central Williamsburg),
Congress (Cobble Hill), Crown Victoria (west
Williamsburg: summer), Black Bear (west Williamsburg: winter),
Vol de Nuit (West Village), Pencil Factory
(Greenpoint), Fulton Grand (Clinton Hill), The Breslin
(Flatiron)
And here is a short list of bars that
I've only been to once but that made such a pleasant impression on me
that I'm willing to recommend them all the same:
Kirakuya (Koreatown), Beverly's
(Chinatown), 124 Old Rabbit Club (West Village),
Proletariat (East Village), OTB (south
Williamsburg), Hank's Saloon (Boerum Hill), Bossa Nova
Civic Club (Bushwick), Bearded Lady (Prospect Heights),
Bait & Tackle (Red
Hook), Nights and Weekends (Greenpoint),
Forgetmenot (Chinatown)
On to food. If you said to me, 'Ned,
I'm spending a week in New York, please tell me where I should eat in
order to experience the best of what the city has to offer (limiting
your recommendations, of course, to restaurants you've visited at
least twice, because this isn't some sort of happy-go-lucky
free-for-all)' I would supply the following list, which has a strong
bias towards Asian food, because that's what I'm into:
Xi'an Famous Foods (Shaanxi
Chinese, various locations), Momofuku Noodle Bar (Asian, East
Village), Momofuku Sssam Bar (Asian, East Village), Mission
Chinese Food (Chinese, Lower East Side), Roberta's
(Italian, Bushwick), Spotted Pig (British, West
Village), Pok Pok Ny (Thai, Red Hook), Somtum Der
(northern Thai, East Village), Hot Kitchen (Sichuan Chinese,
East Village), Keste (Neapolitan pizza, West Village), Ivan
Ramen (ramen, multiple locations), Chengdu Heaven (Sichuan
Chinese, Flushing), Taste of Northern China (Henan
Chinese), Ali's
Trinidad Roti Shop (roti, Bed Stuy), Rockaway Taco (tacos,
Rockaway), Shake Shack (burgers,
multiple locations), Oddfellows (ice cream, multiple
locations), Num Pang (Cambodian sandwiches, multiple
locations), Hanco's (Vietnamese sandwiches, multiple
locations), Meat Hook Sandwich Shop (sandwiches, East
Williamsburg), Saltie (sandwiches, central Williamsburg),
Dough (doughnuts, multiple locations), Biryani Cart
(kati rolls, Midtown), various BBQ carts in downtown
Flushing (Xinjiang Chinese, Flushing), various taco trucks in
Jackson Heights (tacos, Jackson Heights)
And if you said to me, 'Ned, I'll
permit you to trample over every empirical principle you hold dear
and name some restaurants that you've only visited on a single
occasion but nonetheless feel prepared to endorse on that basis as
among the finest of their kind' this is what you would get:
The Dutch (American, SoHo),
Mighty Quinn's (Southern BBQ, multiple locations), Biang!
(Shaanxi Chinese, Flushing), La Vara (tapas, Cobble Hill),
Tortilleria Nixtamal (tacos, Corona), Danji (Korean,
Hell's Kitchen), Ayada (Thai, Elmhurst), Khao Kang
(Thai, Elmhurst), Kitchen 79 (Thai, Jackson Heights), Arepa
Lady (arepas, Jackson Heights), Prime Meats (American,
Carroll Gardens), Malai Marke (Indian, East Village), Ganesh
Temple Canteen (dosas, Murray Hill)
Of all the restaurants that I have
emblazoned with the royal seal here, the only ones that I'd
characterise as expensive are The Dutch, La Vara, Prime Meats and
Momofuku Ssam Bar. The rest are moderate or cheap (although if you are really determined to throw your money around, a few will permit that in fine fashion). Anyway, everything's on the Google Map. If you use
it, please email me and tell me what you thought.